Stripping is Faster and Often Safer. It’s almost always better to strip than to sand . To begin with, except in cases where the old finish is flaking off, it’s a lot more work to sand than to strip using a paint-and-varnish remover.
It all starts with sanding . You need a smooth surface with no blemishes because stain will highlight scratches and dings in the wood . Always sand down to clean wood (if you have enough meat left of the wood ) before applying any stain . Too fine and the wood won’t be able to accept the stain .
To remove those last bits of finish, palm sand with medium sandpaper (150 grit) until you see the bare wood . Then switch to fine sandpaper (200+ grit) until the entire piece is uniform. Wipe down the whole surface with a tack cloth to remove any dust from sanding .
On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.
Clean. Any refinishing furniture DIY starts with basic cleaning. Examine. Take an overall assessment of the piece and determine if it needs any repairs. Remove the Old Finish. Sanding. Chemical Stripper. Seal the Wood . Stain or Paint. Apply Finish.
The best paint stripper Best Overall: Citri-Strip Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel. Most Eco Friendly: Dumond Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover. Fastest Working: Sunnyside 2-Minute Advanced Paint Remover. Most Family Friendly: MAX Strip Paint & Varnish Stripper. Most Heavy Duty: Dumond Peel Away 1 Heavy-Duty Paint Remover.
A: If you don’t apply some kind of sealer the wood will be dried-out and lifeless. When you rub stain into wood , it brings out the grain pattern and gives the wood a more dramatic look. The final step in staining wood is to wipe off any excess, so the process leaves nothing behind.
Minwax® PolyShades® is an easy way to change the color of your currently stained or polyurethane finished wood. There’s no stripping or heavy sanding necessary to remove the old finish!
Wood stain is designed to penetrate into the grain of the wood , not to remain on the surface. If you happen to spread it too thickly, or you forget to wipe off excess, the material that remains on the surface will become sticky.
The first commandment of sanding : Sand with the grain. But when you have a lot of wood to grind off, break that rule and run your belt sander diagonally across the grain (at about 45 degrees). Instead of scratching away at the wood fibers, the belt will rip them out. It’s incredibly fast—and dangerous.
You can use a stiff-bristled scrub brush to remove varnish from fancy, curved details. Some of the stain may linger after scraping. To remove it, dampen a soft, fine-grade steel-wool pad with more paint stripper and rub it against the wood , following the wood grain, then wipe off the softened stain with a rag.
Using vinegar and water as a homemade hardwood floor cleaning solution can have a negative effect on your hardwood floor. Since vinegar is an acid, it will actually break down the finish on the surface of your floor, and over time it will reduce the shine and leave a dull appearance.
Do I have to apply a clear coat after staining ? While staining creates a rich, deep color that highlights natural wood grain, it does not provide long-term protection. Without a protective top coat , wood can be damaged easily due to contact with water, food, or sharp objects.
Surface Preparation Start with a medium grade of sandpaper (e.g. #120) and gradually work your way to a finer grade (e.g. #220). Sand in the direction of the grain for a smooth, uniform finish and remove all sanding dust using a vacuum, dry paint brush or cloth. Look out for dried glue, especially in the joint area.
Applying a topcoat sealer is not required, but a finish protects the stained wood from scratches and keeps it from fading over time. If applying a polyurethane finish with a brush, apply one to two coats.