Use a flat paintbrush or foam applicator to apply the varnish to the wood. Use long, even strokes, and work along the wood grain. Let this first coat dry for 24 hours. If you are using a spray on varnish , hold the can 6 to 8 inches away from the surface and spray on a light, even coat.
Short answer: yes, you can apply wipe-on over previous varnish . Painting Over Varnish Without Sanding . It is often recommend that you sand any surface thoroughly prior to painting it. Painting over varnish without sanding is not a best practice but it can be done.
Start with a high-quality natural bristle brush and you’re halfway to a smooth finish . In addition to a natural bristle brush, you’ll need a sandpaper block with up to three grits of sandpaper (from 100 to 220), shop vacuum, lint-free cloths and your polyurethane varnish .
Note: Sanding between coats is not necessary, but it will provide a better finish. After a coat has dried, use 220 or 240 grit sandpaper or extra fine steel wool to lightly sand surface. Sanding produces a white film over the finish, but will disappear as you apply the next coat . Do not sand the final coat .
For a very durable finish and one that needs to be very tough, say on a kitchen table, coffee table or end table etc, 2 to 3 coats of varnish should be enough on the top, with 1 to 2 coats on the legs/base. For chairs, benches, chests and other such pieces, 1 to 2 coats should do the trick.
Make sure you use the same finish ie “satin” – and accept you can only ever go darker . Whatever you do , you will need to do some sanding, just maybe not repeating the whole job. And bear in mind that if you do have to sand right back, you’ve already flattened it out so a re-sand wouldn’t be the end of the world.
Short answer: yes, you can apply wipe-on over previous varnish . It isn’t as simple as just wiping on the Minwax product over the existing varnish . In addition to something that’s probably obvious, cleaning the surface well beforehand, you must provide a texture for the new varnish to cling to.
You read correctly – new varnish may be applied over old without removing the old . Clean the surface thoroughly, then sand enough to remove the present sheen entirely. Wipe clean with a tack cloth, the recoat.
Immediately after applying a very thin layer of varnish , use a very soft, delicate, “fluffy” brush and lightly dab the surface. This breaks up the streaks. Use a quick, light up and down dabbing motion, and pay close attention that you don’t miss any spots.
The exact amount will vary depending on how large your piece is, but generally it pays to start small – you can always add more. Then, add some paint thinner directly to the varnish and stir carefully. Experts suggest using 20-25 percent thinner for the first coat of varnish , and 5-10 percent for subsequent coats.
Apply varnish first along the grain of the wood, flowing it on in even strips. Then apply more varnish across the grain to level and even the surface. Varnish , one of the toughest of the finishes, is superior to the other traditional finishes.
Spar varnish is a natural varnish formulated to stay tacky; it should never be used for furniture. Synthetic varnishes are based on synthetic resins and require special thinners. The best of the synthetic varnishes is the polyurethane type; polyurethanes are clear, non-yellowing, and very tough.
Apply a sanding sealer and let sit overnight to enhance a second sanding the next day. The second sanding should be done with a 220-grit sandpaper before applying the finish. Use a lacquer , varnish or polyurethane that will protect the wood and stain, and add a nice sheen to your piece.
The first step to restoring old wood furniture is to give it a good cleaning with an orange or lemon-oil cleaner. Don’t waste your time with furniture polish, go straight for the good stuff: Murphy’s Oil Soap. Spray or wipe on, let it sit for ten to fifteen minutes and then wipe off.